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The timing retard was done with a J&S SAFEGUARD. as well, maybe even better than overdriving the whole fuel rail. Stillen had a system where you added one big centrally located injector (like in the intake duct somewhere before the main plenum, right after the throttle body) dedicated fuel pump, regulator andĬontroller that just drove that one injector according to rpm and boost and they were good for 'non-crack able' ECU apps. Have to have a wideband, logger and days 'of try it and see' to develop settings. Went with an Aeromotive rpm and boost sensitive box that drives an aux fuel pump essentially overdriving the fuel pressure rail.

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Intercept timing signals thru a delay box to add retard under full boost. Had to overdrive the injectors by tricking the ECU and This was for a car I put a supercharger on. It worked fine but IT felt like a band aid in that it was intercepting ECU inputs and changing them to fool the ECU into doing what you wished it would do itself.

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I've done the piggy back thing, it was the only thing you could do on the 350Z when they came out cause no one had cracked the code. I'm not bagging on piggy backs either really as long as they're good.

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Like having to know DOS commands versus being 'led' in the right direction by the software itself.

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Having tuning software with no place to start and no packaging/format that doesn't require knowing computer code I think is throwing most guys to the wolves. Tuning software for the ECU itself would really be best as long as it has, like a reflash, some research to help you get started with it for your combo, and it's packaged in a way that a normal human being can use. I agree a reflash is only as good as their research for multiple combinations of modifications and what works for those specific setups. You don't really need to be a genius to use it if you have a wide band and a dyno, or even just a wide band if your trust your seat of the pants. It's the kind of package most auto tuner shops use and is fairly expensive and mfgr specific. But is packaged so that you don't have to know or understand the code involved, you just grab parts of the curve and move them around, or type in a value that makes sense to you like a/f ratio, speed, rpm etc, and the software writes the code for you. When I say tuning software for stock ECU I'm talking about full blown 'somewhat' user friendly package like 'LS EDIT' that will let you make infinite adjustments with super small increments to all areas of the ECU. I have no idea about the G2 Vmax specifically. In a general way as it relates to my experience with cars, not bikes. Or owning your own user friendly software for stock ECU I made my statements in a general way regarding Here is a link to another decent thread with some links. But they don't as far as I know tune anything for specific setups ( like exhaust systems or race filters etc ). Ryan Schnitz does most bikes ( not sure ), Check out this link, or call him. They may possibly also change fuel and timing curves for specific modifications as well if you tell them.ĮCU flashing is also relatively cheap to have someone else do it. The things the ECU flash from joe blow will get you the basics of removing limiters, timing retards in the first 3 gears ( is common in most bikes not sure on Gen 2 Vmax ) and maybe a few other small things. Buying an ECU editor and doing it yourself will get you the best possible tune for your specific application. So honestly an ECU flash by someone else is probably good enough for most basic people. You couldnt do that with an ECU years ago. And then you can add things like shifters and delays etc.

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The PC will only control fuel, unless you buy the ignition module or teh top of the line PC. Since the ability to flash a ECU is so simple now and the ECU's are bigger and better than before ( before you had small ECU memory and they couldnt do much, now they are big and can control a third world country) they are becoming a more preferred method. That is the nice things about the auto tune. But its a compromise unless you have it specifically tuned for your absolute conditions. Having someone else flash your ECU is a band-aid type fix.

This will depend on how much you want to do yourself and how fine tuned you want it. You can buy a ECU editor and do it yourself as well, you need a logger and a wideband setup. If you just want a few more horsepower or eliminate factory restrictions, then tune the ECU. The best thing to do is check with your tuner and see what he uses.ĮCU's rarely go bad, PC's have been known to lose maps or die.

There is big plus and minus to using one or the other or both together.